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more on shoaling
Shoaling Effect
Occurs when a deep water wave moves into
shallow water
the waves slow down AND get higher
Energy density is increased in order to maintain
the constant energy flux of the wave
Energy density varies on steepness of seabed
Shoaling Effect
at 3 Hawaian beaches for a 12 ft. wave
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1.2 x at Makaha = 14ft
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1.6 x at Sunset Beach = 19ft
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2 x at Waianae = 24ft
