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more on shoaling

Shoaling Effect

Occurs when a deep water wave moves into
shallow water 

the waves slow down AND get higher

Energy density is increased in order to maintain
the constant energy flux of the wave

Energy density varies on steepness of seabed

Shoaling Effect
    at 3 Hawaian beaches for a 12 ft. wave

  • 1.2 x at Makaha = 14ft

  • 1.6 x at Sunset Beach = 19ft

  • 2 x at Waianae = 24ft

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